Restaurants on Wheels
Early dining cars served up seriously swanky fare.
By the time, the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad won the “railroad race” to Aspen (arriving in 1887, via Glenwood Springs), elegant full-service dining cars fulfilled the epicurean dreams of rail travelers nationwide. Though dining cars likely weren’t a focus on the ore-filled trains servicing the Roaring Fork Valley, riders departing Denver enjoyed many options on routes with a dining car, whether headed east or west. An 1890 article written by a “Chicago News reporter” in the Aspen Daily Times noted, “While dining, the eyes wander anon to the ever-changing scenery as the train speeds along, thus feeding the mind at the same time.”
Dining cars got their start in 1868, on the lavish Pullman Delmonico on the Chicago and Alton Railroad lines. Food was upscale and the service, often provided by highly trained former house slaves wearing starched white uniforms, was top notch.
Travelers could expect fine cuisine served on bone china, with silver flatware and white tablecloths, and menus comparable to the famous New York City restaurant from which Pullman borrowed the Delmonico name. Chefs relied on fresh, seasonal ingredients: Menu items in the aforementioned article included “little neck clams, consomme; baked red snapper, sliced tomatoes, compote of apple with rice, boiled chicken, cream sauce; string beans, spinach, green peas, cauliflower, and pineapple sorbet.” For dessert: “Gooseberry pie, strawberry ice-cream and berries, fruit, cheese and coffee.” Special holiday menus featured extravagant dishes such as “braised duck Cumberland, islander shrimp luau, fricandeau of veal, roast beef, roasted turkey with stuffing and cranberry relish, stuffed suckling pig with applesauce, and antelope steak with currant jelly.”
Everyone’s got to eat, especially the weary traveler. Why not enjoy meals in style while riding the rails?
Edible Traditions is produced by the Aspen Historical Society. For access to the full online archives, including more than 10,000 historic images, visit AspenHistory.org or call 970.925.3721.
