The Way Home
Edible Aspen talks to the team behind Carbondale’s newest restaurant and event space
Over the past decade the Roaring Fork Valley has given rise to a new generation of chefs who practice the relationship-driven cuisine established by chef/restaurateur Mark Fischer of the late Six89 in Carbondale.
Sourcing from local farms, ranches and food artisans has become the hallmark of chefs Flip Wise (Open Fire Catering) and Fischer protégé Lacy Hughes (owner of Silo). Together with managing partner/Carbondale native/Denver restaurateur Kade Gianinetti (The Way Back, American Grind), the trio opened The Way Home in the former Six89 location in September 2018. Here Edible Aspen talks to the team about how the new venture honors our foodshed, our community and their shared passion for Carbondale. —LM
Edible Aspen | How did this project come about for you, Kade?
Kade Gianinetti | My family and I had always thought the property—a historic home—was so iconic, so we purchased it in 2017 to make sure that it continued to be held in the same regard for years to come. [The three partners all own shares in the restaurant.] I’ve always dreamed of creating something in Carbondale; I hope the community feels this is a place for everyone.
EA | What do you feel is special about the concept?
Lacy Hughes | Community and comfort were our goals with the space in general. The house has two guest rooms upstairs, so every night it’s like we’re inviting people into our home. A lot of what motivates me has to do with the social aspect of dining. I grew up in the South, arguably a divisive place, yet food was a common ground for everyone and it influenced me a lot. I like simplicity, comfort and bringing people together. That’s why we’re focused on shared plates and family-style service.
Flip Wise | Lacy was cooking the other night when we were short-staffed. She’s a chef first, and it’s awesome having that knowledge in the front of the house—there’s no communication gap in service, so it’s fluid.
LH | We decided to offer lodging because of the increasing number of visitors to Carbondale. Our entire business concept is about where we live, and that includes providing a way for people to stay and enjoy it the way we do. We’re also going to offer a variety of events in our indoor and outdoor spaces. We recently hosted an inaugural Harvest Festival to support artisans from the Valley as well as nearby mountain towns, which also provided an off-season event for the area. Stay tuned on our social media ... there’s lots more to come.
EA | What are you most excited about when it comes to the food?
FW | This is the most mature menu I’ve done so far, and I liken the process to how musicians can read music: I take ingredients and put my own twist on them and riff a little. The food is vibrant and simple, sometimes with no more than five ingredients on the plate. I do have an affinity for Latin flavors, because I grew up in Mexico City, but our oxtail poutine is about as progressive as it gets—we’re really focused on the comfort and approachability of classic dishes. For winter, we have items like velvet fried chicken and fondue and pork belly.
EA | What’s your approach to sourcing ingredients and menu planning?
FW | I’ve formed strong relationships with local farmers and ranchers like Rock Bottom Ranch, Zimmerman Pork, Home Run Ranch and Crystal River Meats. I also worked on a farm for a season so I have a real appreciation for our foodshed. Aside from taking advantage of seasonal ingredients and using preservation techniques to get through the winters, we’re trying to encourage diversification and nose-to-tail eating. Farm Runners [a Hotchkiss-based distributor that works with local growers] provides some of our product; other things we get from farms that self-distribute. If you diversify, you’re being more of a responsible restaurateur, diner and consumer.
EA | What do you think The Way Home is bringing to the Roaring Fork Valley?
KG | Food and community are two universal human needs. The idea of supporting local farmers and other small-business owners allows us to create a tangible connection for our community. We all see this as a catalyst for change and hope to become a model for other restaurants to integrate better philosophies and environmental practices into a business that’s viable.
FW | Six89 had such a positive impact, and we wanted to create something just as powerful. I’d like to see people have a little more time to appreciate the importance of eating together, and not just for health. A shared, sit-down meal is vital for the soul.
GO FIND IT!
The Way Home
689 Main St., Carbondale
970.510.5417
WayHome.co
Please note the restaurant doesn’t accept reservations; rooms can be booked online.
