CHICORIES, which belong to the dandelion family, have sturdy leaves with a bitter, slightly assertive bite. When grilled or roasted, radicchio, in particular, becomes greater than the sum of its parts, as a smoky, caramelized companion to braised meat or the star attraction in a rustic salad. Drizzle the trimmed, halved heads with extra-virgin olive oil and season with coarse sea salt and cracked black pepper. Dress with a drizzle of well-aged aceto balsamico or honey (try herbaceous or citrus varieties like thyme or orange blossom). Finish with chopped Italian parsley or tarragon and crumbled blue cheese and serve with crusty bread, salumi and a bottle of red for a simple, satisfying autumnal repast.